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Component Location
The placement of most of the components, other than the motion detector itself, is usually dictated primarily by the ease of wiring the different components to the control panel.
The weather resistant and compact ABS enclosure we mount the control panel in should ideally be placed at eye level for the ease of wiring. You also want to hide this box so that if someone were to "case" your boat they would not readily find it - or if they were actually inside the boat during an alarm activation they could not rip it off the bulkhead in a hurry.
Opportune locations such as the top of the back wall of a hanging locker is often ideal. You will frequently be able to tap into the 12VDC ceiling light in the closet for a 12VDC power supply (make absolutely certain it is 12 volts - NOT 115!!) . The device in an alarm state will not draw more than a couple of amps and we have supplied an in line fuse for the power supply so don't worry about overloading the wire.
Hanging lockers are also ideal locations for mounting the pager antenna should you elect to use one, and there is ample room to mount all of the systems components on this bulkhead.
It is good form to mount the piezo away from the alarm panel location so as to not direct an intruder directly to the control box, however the piezo we supply has such an annoying, even painful screech I doubt anyone would be hanging around after an alarm activation, so this is not critical.
Because of the crowded marinas, it is polite to limit the noise outside the boat - we recommend having most of the noise inside the boat. An intruder will not know if you have a remote communication device such as a pager, radio transmitter or central station, and will most likely take off if the alarm sounds regardless. The alarm will sound for a default period of four minutes and then will reset, however the alarm memory will advise you of an activation when you return.
The alarm output is powerful enough to drive a variety of devices, such as multiple sirens and strobe lights, however we have found that the one 2.5" mini super siren we supply to be not only simple to locate but more than an adequate deterrent.
If you are lucky, you may be able to mount all of the systems components in one locker - the keypad and motion detector on the outside of this locker, the antenna and panels inside the locker and the Piezo nearby!
The keypad placement location is the most critical. You want the keypad to be protected from the elements in an obvious position so that someone casing the boat will readily see it, however it should be in a location that you can easily block with your body when entering the code so that someone cannot observe your secret code. It should also be in a location that will trigger the motion detector when you walk up to it so that the 45 second default entry time delay is activated. The keypad will beep for forty-five seconds prior to an alarm activation if the motion detector is wired to the entry/exit delay zone (zone 1). The other zones are default programmed to an instant activation - these are all adjustable if desired with advanced programming.
Wiring Instructions
We have totally pre-wired the control board and terminated a few simple connections on large, clearly labeled, marine quality terminal blocks.
We have supplied pre-tinned, stranded four conductor and two conductor wire that is easy to use and will hold up very well in the harsh marine environment. Never use solid core wire because the constant motion may cause it to fail, and copper wire will not hold up well in the marine environment. Quality connections are crucial, as is adequate wire support for a long term trouble free installation.
The marine pre-tinned stranded four conductor wire does have a different color code than standard domestic wiring - different only in that the yellow wire is white. The wire we have supplied has black, red, green white, instead of black, red, green, yellow - therefore the white and yellow are interchangeable. The red is always 12 volts positive and the black is always the 12 volt negative.
Take your time - be meticulous - if you use side cutters instead of a wire stripper be sure to not cut through half of the strands when stripping, do not strip so much wire so as to have bare wire shorting the neighboring terminal, don't leave loose strands shorting out the neighboring terminal, give a gentle tug on each wire after securing it to make sure it is secure, don't power the alarm until all connections have been made and rechecked, when done, secure with screw type wire ties so that vibrations will not loosen or weaken the wires - the quality of your job and the performance of the alarm depends on it.
You can simply follow the few instructions on the face plate label, however for your convenience we will outline the steps as follows:
1. KEYPAD: After all components are mounted, use the 4 conductor wire we supplied and connect the four keypad color coded wires to the corresponding colors on the four position keypad terminal block.
2. PIEZO/STROBE LIGHT: Use the twenty two gauge 2 conductor wire (thinner of the two, 2 conductor wire) and connect the piezo wire to the two position bell/siren output terminal block - observe polarity - red to red, black to black.
The strobe may also be attached to this terminal block, however you may wish to connect the strobe to the "Optional Bell/Siren/Strobe" terminal block - observe polarity - red to red, black to black. The primary bell/siren terminal block will be energized for only four minutes after an alarm activation, however the "Optional Bell/Siren/Strobe" output will be constantly energized after an alarm activation until the correct alarm code is entered. (See the bilge switch instructions below for further details).
3. MOTION DETECTOR:
Zone 1 is the default entry/exit zone whereby you will have 45 seconds to enter the correct alarm code on the keypad before the alarm goes into a state of alarm when entering, and you will have 120 seconds to exit once the alarm is armed when you leave.
Use the four conductor wire and attach to the alarm box the red to the 12VDC (+) power output terminal block and the black to the 12VDC (-) position. Then remove the jumper wire crossing the contacts on zone 1 and connect the white and green to Zone 1 (either of the two terminals - this is a normally closed loop).
For your convenience, we have installed jumper wires on all six zones prior to shipping - the jumper must be removed when you attach your normally closed switch, motion detector or other device to any one zone.
At the motion detector, attach the red and black to the respective motion detectors +(red) and - (black) 12 volt DC positions. Connect the white and green to the alarm NC and C connections (normally closed and common). Your motion detector probably has a tamper switch - do not attach these wires to the tamper switch NC and C connections - the tamper switch itself can be an additional zone if desired.
4. BILGE SWITCH: Use the twenty two gauge 2 conductor wire (thinner of the two, 2 conductor wire). We have supplied one UL/CSA approved waterproof/explosion proof bilge switch that should be mounted in a location that bilge water should not be present, but low enough in the bilge to alert you if high water is present. Because some boats sink at the bow and some at the stern, and cats port or starboard, if you are not sure, we suggest you install multiple switches. Additional switches are available for $14.95 each and as many as desired may be wired in series in one or more zones. These switches may be mounted facing up or down - simply remove and reverse the float to alternate from a normally open to a normally closed position.
Zone five has been programmed to be a slow response zone that requires a 2.5 second constant open before an alarm is triggered. A 2.5 second closure is also required between openings. In most applications this will prevent false alarms from heavy sea conditions or bilge water sloshing, however if your particular situation is more extreme you may need to experiment with different suitable locations or consider using our Flagship Sentry II that is specifically designed to monitor multiple bilge areas - this device requires a ten second continuous open to initiate an alarm.
Zone five has been programmed to be a 24 hour "bell/buzzer" zone, whereby if the system is not armed, the keypad buzzer only will sound, and if the system is armed, the siren/strobe will sound if zone five is opened - 24hrs/day. This is important because many boats are actually sinking while the owner is fishing, sleeping or simply cruising! The bell or buzzer can of course be silenced by entering the alarm code, however an alarm signal will be sent to central station if connected, and the alarm state will be entered into memory. If you want the siren to sound if zone five is triggered whether or not the system is armed, this can be accomplished by programming zone five as a 24 hour bell zone.
The default duration of siren/strobe output after an alarm activation is four minutes, and this zone will not reset if the contacts of the triggered zone remain open, therefore if your boat is sinking, the siren and or strobe will only flash for this four minute period - OR -
-You may wire an alternate output device, such as an external light or strobe to the terminal block labeled "Optional Bell/Siren/Strobe" which is a latched output type - the alarm code must be entered to stop the output! We suggest a strobe light only be wired to this output because many municipalities do not allow continual audible output devices, and you don't want to upset your neighbors, regardless.
5. POWER SUPPLY: Use the eighteen gauge 2 conductor wire (heavier of the two, 2 conductor wire)You are now ready to hook up the power supply and either use the default program already in your system or enter your own custom program whereby you can change the standard 45 second delay on entry and 120 second delay on exit, etc.. Simply take your 12 volt power supply and attach it to the clearly marked 12 volt power supply terminal block on the alarm enclosure - observe polarity - red to +, and black to -. Be sure to use the 3 amp in line fuse we supplied and place this at the source of power so as to also protect the wire going to the alarm.
You may also wish to attach a 16 volt AC power supply, however this is not necessary for normal operation. Be sure to use a UL approved transformer that puts out 40VA of 16 volts, AC current. This should also be protected with a maximum 2.5 amp fuse. DO NOT ATTACH 110 VOLTS TO THE ALARM!!
6. PROGRAMMING: You are now ready to power the alarm and test its functions. All of the default codes and custom software modifications can be viewed starting on page 17 of your manual. The only thing you should do is to enter new master, installer and user code numbers to personalize your alarm. DO NOT LOSE THESE CODES! The temporary default code is 1234 - please read the programming guide starting on page eight of your owner's manual to personalize your system.
Congratulations - you have just successfully completed a fine security system installation!!
SMOKE DETECTOR - Optional: Zone six is the default zone for 24 hour fire/smoke detection. You will find a resistor, known as an end-of-line resistor crossing this zone on the twelve position terminal block that is for the six different zones.
Most installations require a normally open circuit for fire detection with the end of line resistor closing the zone at the detector as shown below. If you elect to attach a smoke detector, the resistor should be removed from the terminal board (zone 6 position) and placed on the smoke detector as shown, resulting in the constant monitoring of the wire going to the smoke detector.
We supply four-wire smoke detectors that will need a 12 volt power supply, eliminating the need for batteries. Simply attach the red (+) and the black (-) to the corresponding position of the two position terminal block labeled "12 VDC power output" on the control box and the green and the white to the zone 6 - either terminal, this is a normally open circuit.
Attach the wires on the smoke detector as shown below:
Typical four wire smoke detector connections showing how the end-of-line resistor is crossing the normally open alarm connections, and the 12 volt DC power supply terminals Caution! All components of this system are UL approved, however if your vessel is a commercial passenger vessel you should check with your local MSO to ascertain the compliance of this fire detection system with the applicable USCG CFRs for your application.
1-800-316-6426
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Flagship Marine, Inc., 2427 SE Dixie Hwy., Stuart, Florida 34996 - USA
Phone: 772-283-1609 - Fax: 772-283-4611 - Watts: 800-316-6426 - sales@flagshipmarine.comCopyright © 1995-2002 Flagship Marine, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
