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Component Location
The placement of most of the components, other than the motion detector itself, is usually dictated primarily by the ease of wiring the different components to the control panel.
The weather resistant and compact ABS enclosure we mount the control panel in should ideally be placed at eye level for the ease of wiring. You also want to hide this box so that if someone were to "case" your boat or RV they would not readily find it - or if they were actually inside the boat or RV during an alarm activation they could not rip it off the wall in a hurry.
Opportune locations such as the top of the back wall of a hanging locker is often ideal. You will frequently be able to tap into the 12VDC ceiling light in the closet for a 12VDC power supply (make absolutely certain it is 12 volts - NOT 115 volts!!) . The device in an alarm state will not draw more than a couple of amps and we have supplied an in line fuse for the power supply so don't worry about overloading the wire.
You may wish to power the alarm directly from the battery so that if the power is turned off the unit will still work.
In some cases, the transfer switch will cause a momentary voltage drop in the house wiring when the generator is started or stopped causing the alarm module to power down and power up again. Whenever the module powers up the siren will sound for two seconds which you may find quite annoying - test your power supply before making your final decision.
Some owners run a wire to the battery and a second wire to the compartment the battery is in for a magnetic door switch that will immediately sound the alarm if the compartment door is opened.
It is good form to mount the siren away from the alarm panel location so as to not direct an intruder directly to the control module, however the siren we supply has such an annoying, even painful screech I doubt anyone would be hanging around after an alarm activation, so this is not critical.
Because of the crowded campgrounds and marinas, it is polite to limit the noise outside the boat or camper - we recommend having most of the noise inside the camper or boat. An intruder will not know if you have a remote communication device such as a pager and will most likely take off if the alarm sounds regardless. The alarm will sound for a default period of four minutes and then will reset, however the alarm memory will advise you of an activation when you return.
The alarm output is powerful enough to drive a variety of devices, such as multiple sirens and strobe lights, however we have found that the one siren we supply to be not only simple to locate but more than an adequate deterrent.
If you are lucky, you may be able to mount all of the systems components in one locker - the keypad and motion detector on the outside of this locker, the antenna and panels inside the locker and the Piezo nearby!
The keypad placement location is the most critical. You want the keypad to be protected from the elements in an obvious position so that someone casing the boat or RV will readily see it, however it should be in a location that you can easily block with your body when entering the code so that someone cannot observe your secret code. It should also be in a location that will trigger the motion detector when you walk up to it so that the 45 second default entry time delay is activated. The keypad will beep for forty-five seconds prior to an alarm activation if the motion detector is wired to the entry/exit delay zone (zone 1). The other zones are default programmed to an instant activation - these are all adjustable if desired with advanced programming.
The placement of the motion detector is critical and you should read the instructions that come with the motion detector itself. Most installations mount the motion detector on the bathroom or refrigerator wall facing the point of entry. The detectors are pet immune for up to a 100lb dog and up to six cats and have a 33' range with a 90° horizontal span - again, read the literature that comes with the detector.
Wiring Instructions
We have totally pre-wired the control board and terminated a few simple connections on large, clearly labeled, marine quality terminal blocks.
We have supplied pre-tinned (for marine), stranded four conductor and two conductor wire that is easy to use and will hold up very well in the harsh marine and RV environment. Never use solid core wire because the constant motion may cause it to fail, and copper wire will not hold up well in the marine environment. Quality connections are crucial, as is adequate wire support for a long term trouble free installation.
The marine pre-tinned stranded four conductor wire does have a different color code than standard domestic wiring - different only in that the yellow wire is white. The wire we have supplied has black, red, green white, instead of black, red, green, yellow - therefore the white and yellow are interchangeable. The red is always 12 volts positive and the black is always the 12 volt negative. Soldered connections are of course the best, however small crimp style connectors are very acceptable.
Take your time - be meticulous - if you use side cutters instead of a wire stripper be sure to not cut through half of the strands when stripping, do not strip so much wire so as to have bare wire shorting the neighboring terminal, don't leave loose strands shorting out the neighboring terminal, give a gentle tug on each wire after securing it to make sure it is secure, don't power the alarm until all connections have been made and rechecked, when done, secure with screw type wire ties so that vibrations will not loosen or weaken the wires - the quality of your job and the performance of the alarm depends on it.
You can simply follow the few instructions on the face plate label, however for your convenience we will outline the steps as follows:
1. KEYPAD: After all components are mounted, use the four conductor wire we supplied and connect the four keypad color coded wires to the corresponding colors on the four position keypad terminal block.
2. Siren: Use the twenty two gauge 2 conductor wire (thinner of the two, 2 conductor wire) and connect the siren and strobe light wires to the two position bell/siren output terminal block - observe polarity - red to red, black to black.
Please note that if the alarm is activated, this terminal output will be energized for four minutes only, the alarm will re-arm after this four minute period, and an alarm memory will be registered on the keypad.
If you would like to have the strobe light operate continuously after an alarm activation, attach the strobe to the "Optional Bell/Siren/Strobe" terminal block. This is a "latched" output that will remain activated continuously until the correct alarm code is entered. DO NOT attach an audible device to the optional output terminal block - most municipalities forbid continuous audible alarm devices.
3. MOTION DETECTOR:
Zone 1 is the default entry/exit zone whereby you will have 45 seconds to enter the correct alarm code on the keypad before the alarm goes into a state of alarm when entering, and you will have 120 seconds to exit once the alarm is armed when you leave.
Use the four conductor wire and attach to the alarm box the red to the 12VDC (+) power output terminal block and the black to the 12VDC (-) position. Then remove the jumper wire crossing the contacts on zone 1 and connect the white and green to Zone 1 (either of the two terminals - this is a normally closed loop).
For your convenience, we have installed jumper wires on all six zones prior to shipping - the jumper must be removed when you attach your normally closed switch, motion detector or other device to any one zone.
At the motion detector, attach the red and black to the respective motion detectors +(red) and - (black) 12 volt DC positions. Connect the white and green to the alarm NC and C connections (normally closed and common). Your motion detector probably has a tamper switch - do not attach these wires to the tamper switch NC and C connections - the tamper switch itself can be an additional zone if desired.
4. POWER SUPPLY: You are now ready to hook up the power supply and either use the default program already in your system or enter your own custom program whereby you can change the standard 45 second delay on entry and 120 second delay on exit, etc.. Use the eighteen gauge 2 conductor wire (heavier of the two, 2 conductor wire). Simply take your 12 volt power supply and attach it to the clearly marked 12 volt power supply terminal block on the alarm enclosure - observe polarity - red to +, and black to - Be sure to use the 3 amp in line fuse we supplied and place this at the source of power so as to also protect the wire going to the alarm.
You may also wish to attach an AC power supply, however this is not necessary for normal operation. Be sure to use a UL approved transformer that puts out 40VA of 16 volt, AC current. This should also be protected with a maximum 2.5 amp fuse. DO NOT ATTACH 110 VOLTS TO THE ALARM!!
5. PROGRAMMING: You are now ready to power the alarm and test its functions. The original default program has been modified in only one way - there will be no trouble code should the AC power fail because we you will be operating with 12VDC constantly. All of the default codes can be viewed starting on page 17 of your manual. The only thing you should do is to enter new master, installer and user code numbers to personalize your alarm. The temporary default code is 1234 - please read the programming guide starting on page eight of your owner's manual to personalize your system.
You will notice that the alarm cannot be armed until the green "ready" LED is lit. Because of this, you may have to stand still for a couple of seconds if the keypad is very close to the motion detector. To re-arm the system after an alarm activation you must first depress the # key to clear the memory. The owners manual will have a lot of helpful detail on the many available functions of this alarm.
Congratulations - you have just successfully completed a fine security system installation!!
OPTIONAL SMOKE DETECTOR : Zone six is the default zone for 24 hour fire/smoke detection. You will find a resistor, known as an end-of-line resistor crossing this zone on the twelve position terminal block that is for the six different zones.
Most installations require a normally open circuit for fire detection with the end of line resistor closing the zone at the detector itself as shown below. If you elect to attach a smoke detector, the resistor should be removed from the terminal board (zone 6 position) and placed on the smoke detector as shown, resulting in the constant monitoring of the wire going to the smoke detector.
We supply four-wire smoke detectors that will need a 12 volt power supply, eliminating the need for batteries. Simply attach the red (+) and the black (-) to the corresponding position of the two position terminal block labeled "12 VDC power output" on the control box and the green and the white to the zone 6 - either terminal, this is a normally open circuit.
Attach the wires on the smoke detector as shown below:
Typical four wire smoke detector connections showing how the end-of-line resistor is crossing the normally open alarm connections, and the 12 volt DC power supply terminals 1-800-316-6426
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Flagship Marine, Inc., 2427 SE Dixie Hwy., Stuart, Florida 34996 - USA
Phone: 772-283-1609 - Fax: 772-283-4611 - Watts: 800-316-6426 - sales@flagshipmarine.comCopyright © 1995-2002 Flagship Marine, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
